I tried the new Hjem pop up at well-known County Durham spot and here's why you should catch it while you can

Or is there?

The acclaimed Hjem team served their last dish in Wall with a final hurrah on New Year’s Eve to focus on the creation of their new venture: a purpose-built restaurant-with-rooms, called Freyja, on the Close House Estate in nearby Wylam.

But Hjem lives on - for six months only.

As building works commence on Freyja, South Causey Inn is home to Hjem, meaning people south of the Tyne don’t have to travel as far to indulge in the culinary magic of head chef Alex Nietosvuori, whose dishes combine his native Scandi cooking with the best produce from Northumberland’s rich natural larder.

He co-founded Hjem with wife Ally Thompson-Nietosvuori from the North East, who leads the front of house, and it’s their marriage of cultures that gave rise to Hjem.

I went to a preview night at South Causey Inn ahead of the new six-month residency opening on February 4.

Like many in the area, I’ve been to South Causey, near Stanley, many times and it’s well-known for its fun approach to hospitality, with afternoon teas served on mini picnic benches, the chance to sleep in a converted double decker London bus and a curiosity shop that sells all manner of weird and wonderful things.

Situated away from the main house, in The Farmhouse usually used for weddings, this temporary addition has the rural escapism of the original Hjem with its views over the undulating landscape of the Beamish valley.

Arriving at nightfall, the subtle twinkle of lights in the surroundings tree, and ascending the stone steps from The Farmhouse’s own car park, you could be in the middle of nowhere.

In keeping with the name, The Farmhouse, which is an updated 150-year-old farmhouse, feels like a homely country pile with its roaring fires set in marble fireplaces, panelled walls and big sofas for sinking into.

We were treated to a sample tasting menu of six courses, which we grazed over for around three hours.

First up: snacks. Humble they sound, but these were bold little morsels, such as a Lindisfarne Oyster, cooked in another great indulgence, Champagne, with a kick of Sauerkraut and finished off with an elegant Champagne foam.

The other courses were well-sized for a tasting menu. A trout and pistachio dish was beautifully done, a really well balanced medley of texture and flavour.

Special shout out, too, to the brioche served with a cultured butter that had been so whipped to perfection I could have eaten it by the teaspoonful.

They like their chickens at Hjem. So much so, you can see dozens of them tenderising away in the Dry Ager fridge at the front of the restaurant.

The resulting roast poached chicken dish, served with the rich earthiness of morel and Cavolo nero, was another triumph.

In a shocking admission, I don’t really eat desserts and rarely order one (zero sweet tooth over here), but we both let out mmmmm’s at the choux and blueberry dessert.

It arrived looking like a Mendl’s creation straight from Wes Anderson’s vivid imagination and managed to give you that comforting sweetness as well as a refreshing tart tingle on the palate.

It was followed by a veritable paint palette of petit four - and plenty of them, if you have any room left after all that.

Drinks-wise, I did the juice pairing, instead of the wine version, and there was just as much thought gone into the non-alcoholic options, which included those squeezed from produce grown in the Freyja walled garden.

The Rooibus Amaretto, which has that distinctive Battenbergy taste, despite being almond-free, was a revelation.

Our sommelier discovered it for a diner with a nut allergy and it’s stayed on the menu, with organic Freyja additions - which shows the attention to detail that goes into the offering here.

Service, as you’d expect from a restaurant that’s earned its Michelin stripes, was super informative, our sommelier chatting us through the provenance of our dishes and drinks.

In the background, a playlist that spanned the genres from indie to pop - including the pleasant surprise of a Sugababes classic. Stuffy, this is not.

This was all a dry run ahead of the restaurant opening on February 4, but they seemed to feel right at Hjem.

Timings, prices and how to book

Offering an à la carte menu with a six-course tasting option, the restaurant will operate dinner services Wednesday to Friday, with lunch and dinner on Saturday and a long lunch on Sundays.

The à la carte prices and options change according to the seasons, but you can pick up mains from around £15 - £26.

The tasting menu option, meanwhile, is priced from £105 per person for six courses.

The Sunday menu is from £55 per person for three courses and there’s also special menus for Valentine’s Day and Mother’s Day.

Restaurant Hjem at South Causey Inn will officially open on February 4, with bookings for both dining and overnight stays available via southcausey.co.uk/hjem-at-south- causey-inn