I found a secret Edinburgh hotel with stunning castle views – and it’s pet-friendly too

Dudley the beagle enjoyed his stay at The Resident.placeholder image
Dudley the beagle enjoyed his stay at The Resident.
A whistlestop Edinburgh visit revealed the surprising bedroom secrets of the Royal Family, perhaps Scotland’s greatest bakery – and a spectacular beagle-eye view of the city’s most famous landmark.

Chatting to guests in Edinburgh’s newest hotel it was clear, given the sheer volume of recommendations for places to visit, an overnight stay was never going to do the city justice.

But hey, the fun is trying to squeeze everything in, right? Not all can make the must-do list. Dirty Dicks being a case in point. Despite the bar’s eyebrow-raising name and effusive thumbs up from Edinburgh regular Pete, who was also enjoying a weekend stay at The Resident Edinburgh hotel, the venue would have to wait for our custom. We were putting ourselves in the hands of the knowledgeable hotel team to guide our stay.

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One of the 164-room venue’s USPs is having a team with a wide range of insider tips on how to enjoy your time and get the most out of the city. As swish as The Resident is, it has no restaurant. So, with necessity being the mother of invention, the team take pride in pointing you toward spots that suit your taste. With so many lauded cafes and restaurants nearby, just five minutes from Princes Street, we threw ourselves into the mix rather than stay hotel-bound for breakfast. If you can’t face stepping out without coffee and a bite to eat, every room comes with a mini-kitchen area with fridge, microwave and Nespresso coffee machine if you were minded bringing your own snacks.

The Resident hotel offers a fantastic view of Edinburgh Castle.placeholder image
The Resident hotel offers a fantastic view of Edinburgh Castle.

We prefer to attack our days with the finest Edinburgh has to offer and in the case of Lannan Bakery, in Hamilton Place, that means calorie-laden pastries. What better way to start the day than with croissants that wouldn’t look out of place on a plinth in one of the many art galleries in Edinburgh for all the world to admire. Get there early though, the place is so popular, queues start forming an hour before opening (the bakery, not the art galleries, which maybe speaks volumes about society and culture, but I digress).

Edinburgh is famous for The Fringe, military tattoo and, erm, rock, but what else does it have to offer for the inquisitive visitor? First up on our itinerary was the rather left-field choice of The Royal Yacht Britannia. The vessel is laid up and open to the public in the resurgent dock area of Leith and what an eye opener it

proved.

What at the time was considered peak decadence (the vessel was operational from 1954-97) now has a down-to-earth charm which is a million miles from the garish opulence of the oligarch superyachts being impounded today.

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The Junior Suite offers a balcony view of Edinburgh Castle.placeholder image
The Junior Suite offers a balcony view of Edinburgh Castle.

Rather than dripping in gold and marble, the accommodation that was home to Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip on overseas trips has more in common with a middle-class two-up, two-down than a stately home - think Hyacinth Bucket with knobs on. I expected to be gawping at ornate chandeliers and ostentatious drawing rooms, instead we found ourselves admiring the chintz, nodding towards the electric fires and wondering just how far the royal legs might’ve been sticking out from the tiny beds they were allocated.

That’s not to say The Royal Yacht lacked luxury. There was no shortage of staff to attend to their every need and the vessel did come with an on-board Rolls Royce, a Royal Barge and a baby grand piano from Steinway & Sons, ensuring Liz and Co were keeping up with - and exceeding - the Joneses. The tour includes use of a handheld audio device with a recorded guide transporting you back to a more innocent time in the lives of the Royals. Hey, you even get a chance to don a rear admiral’s cap in the yacht’s driving seat… what’s not to like?

From there we trotted along to enjoy the traditional Royal tipple of… gin! Just a few yards from the vessel is the Lind and Lime Gin Distillery where you can indulge in a guided tour and, most importantly, taste the wares. Rather than beating you over the head with long-winded brewing facts, the tour is light-hearted, fun and you get to bottle up your own gin and rustle up a potent cocktail. Again, what’s not to like?

A lime’s throw from there is the Port of Leith Distillery which boasts an 8th floor bar and restaurant, ideal for soaking up panoramic views of Leith and to replenish flagging energy levels. It has an industrial chic New York loft house vibe with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the Firth of Forth.

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Tasty dishes can be found at Tipo.placeholder image
Tasty dishes can be found at Tipo.

A nice touch back at The Resident is the evening drinks hour from 5pm in which guests can mingle and enjoy drinks on the house. It’s also a pet-friendly hotel with many rooms boasting fantastic, and little known, views of the famous Edinburgh Castle. We have visited the hotel with two pet beagles in tow, and while they would barely register the view, the city itself is pet friendly. I’d recommend a hike up Arthur’s Seat if you want your four-legged friends (and yourself) to sleep well at night.

For evening meals, we went to the atmospherically lit gastropub The Voyage of Buck, in William Street, on arrival in the city. And stepped it up on our last night with a trip to Tipo, on Hanover Street, where you can get sharing plates of Italian-inspired dishes in pared back understated, but undoubtedly cool, surroundings. The staff here were great fun and as knowledgeable on the wine and food, as they were on the Edinburgh celebrities. Ask about JK Rowling and her overgrown bush next time you’re there! Her hedge is the talk of the neighbourhood apparently.

Before grabbing a train back home, we managed to squeeze in a trip down Princes Street for the ubiquitous bout of retail therapy knowing we’d had a great time, but had barely scratched the surface of everything Edinburgh has to offer. Still, all the more reason to go again. We’ll catch you next time Dirty Dicks because, like all the best cities, Edinburgh leaves you wanting more.

Everything you need to know…

Richard gets to play skipper of the Royal Yacht Britannia on tour of the famous vessel.placeholder image
Richard gets to play skipper of the Royal Yacht Britannia on tour of the famous vessel.

The Resident, 15 Drumsheugh Gardens, Edinburgh EH3 7UG. Website: https://www.residenthotels.com/edinburgh/

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Nightly rates are from £189 upwards. Sign up to the hotel’s website as a Resident member (it’s free) and you will automatically enjoy 15% off and be included in several special sales throughout the year with some savings amounting to 42% off.

Rating: 4 star

Number of bedrooms: 164

Nearest train station: Edinburgh Waverley (2 miles away)

Nearest airport: Edinburgh Airport (7 miles away)

The views across Edinburgh can be breathtaking.placeholder image
The views across Edinburgh can be breathtaking.

The Royal Yacht Britannia tours. Website: https://www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk/

Britannia is an award-winning five-star visitor attraction and exclusive hospitality venue, permanently berthed in Leith, Edinburgh, just two miles from the city centre.

Tickets: Adult £20, Child (aged 5-17) £9.50, Family (2 adults and up to 3 children) £50.

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